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“While it could be a disaster and create an utterly wretched wine, it could also have tremendous significance to the wine industry,” Grahm says. “The project is not obviously monetizable. It will take a very long time before it yields real tangible results. But it is a supremely interesting project and one that has potentially real value. I really feel that my most interesting work is ahead of me, and I just can’t wait to get to it.”. There are naysayers, to be sure. But Andrew Walker, a professor in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis, thinks the idea is fantastic. He has known Grahm for 20 years.
“We have not made any advancements in our plant material in 80s sam libby beige leather ballet bowtie flats shoes centuries, and that is what Randall is trying to do,” says Walker, a grape breeding expert, “We know that all of our favorite varietals have been hybridized, so if we’re going to deal with climate change, we need new grapes that have stronger color, better drought tolerance and stronger acid, Randall has recognized that and, in essence, is almost opening up the possibility of another market altogether, It may or may not work, but it’s helping to push the envelope.”..
Grahm has always been a trailblazer. He led the way for screw caps in 2001, full-disclosure ingredient labeling in 2008, and has championed little-known varietals throughout his career. Those coups don’t change his conundrum: Eight years after the sale of his large brands — Big House, Cardinal Zin and Pacific Rim — Grahm is finding it difficult to rebrand and right-size Bonny Doon Vineyard, to find a scale that is profitable while staying true to the goals he first set forth in 1983: to produce wines of distinction in a natural, unmanipulated manner.
“It’s a tough business, and I’m really pushing myself every day,” says Grahm, who, at 61, is pounding the pavement, working the national sales circuit in a way that is typical of winemakers half his 80s sam libby beige leather ballet bowtie flats shoes age (all the while schlepping his daughter, Amelie, 11, from ballet to cello practice), “I think we’re finally gaining some traction as a company, but it’s hard-fought, It’s a crazy competitive market, The challenge is how do I build this to be a sustainable business without having a heart attack.”..
The problem lies in the economics of wholesaler distribution. Without a must-have wine like Big House Red, there is no guaranteed sale or buzzy label. Like many midsize wineries, Bonny Doon Vineyard now struggles to get noticed — an odd feeling, one would imagine, for a vintner with a history of spotlight antics. Who else would have worn a Lone Ranger costume on the cover of Wine Spectator, or held a funeral for the cork in New York’s Grand Central Terminal?. “We’ve been around for a long time, and maybe it’s the nature of the business, but Bonny Doon is not as new and shiny (as) it used to be,” Grahm says. “Maybe I’m overly sensitive and slightly neurotic, but publicly, I feel I’m regarded as a historical relic. I’m treasured for what I did 25 years ago.”.
He is, In 2010, Grahm was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame for his contributions to the wine industry, 80s sam libby beige leather ballet bowtie flats shoes Last year, the Rhone Rangers honored Grahm with a Lifetime Achievement Award, their first, for introducing and marketing Rhone-style wines in the United States, His first vintage of the flagship Le Cigare Volant debuted in 1984 as an homage to the principal grapes of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Before that, few people in California drank, let alone made, syrah, From the beginning, he has also been a tireless champion of Old World varietals, from picpoul to nebbiolo..
“As a visionary in our industry, Randall was an easy choice for the first Rhone Rangers Lifetime Achievement Award,” says David Gates, president of the Rhone Rangers board of directors and vice president of vineyard operations at Ridge Vineyards in Cupertino. “In many respects he introduced an American public to Rhone grape varieties grown here in California, and paved the way for a lot (of) winemakers. In terms of his future, who knows, maybe muscardin grown from seeds or aging wine in glass carboys?”.
People who have worked with Grahm agree, “Randall is fearless and willing to experiment and challenge the status quo,” says Alison Crowe, who served as Bonny Doon’s enologist and later as associate winemaker from 80s sam libby beige leather ballet bowtie flats shoes 2000 to 2004, She is now the winemaker at Garnet Vineyards in Napa, “He would never say, ‘I need to make this cabernet taste like this so it can get 100 points.’ He taught us to get out of the way and let the grapes speak, to not have wine blinders on, to learn about and taste wines from Germany and Hungary, He is a citizen of the world and encouraged us to be as well.”..
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